Previous Gorge-osity posts here.
This entry isn’t really about the Columbia river gorge, though it’s on the same trip, so it counts as Gorge-osity.
Southwest Washington state is the same story told again and again: Logging town, connection to Lewis and Clark, Wobblies were lynched, there used to be salmon. Seriously.
OK, maybe not a lynching in every town, but there’s a whole history of union radicalism in the place, just as there’s an undercurrent of environmentalist radicalism today. Everyone knows the arguments, even if they disagree, and even if they disagree vehemently.
The Lewis and Clark expedition is always upheld in song and tale and interpretive plaque. You can’t escape it. I talked earlier about the Longview bridge, but in the 1980 it was renamed the Lewis and Clark Bridge. Which I think is a silly name. But Lewis and Clark camped nearby (a place called Dibblee Point beach), so therefore it ended up with the name. The Voyage Of Discovery was important in so many ways, but what does this bridge have to do with it?
I found myself in a place Lewis and Clark could only dream of as they spent a winter eating bark on Cape Disappointment: Motel 6, watching The Weather Channel. If only they’d had GoogleEarth back then…
The Weather Channel was telling me a story I liked to hear: That the weather would be nice. I had camera gear, nice weather, and a National Monument I hadn’t ever visited. So it was obviously time to go to Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.
But part of me wasn’t convinced. I had to argue with myself for a little while, driving up I-5. I could put off the decision until I got to Castle Rock. I needed gas anyway, so making the exit was no big deal, and then a right turn down WA 504, and before I knew it I was at the visitor’s center, giving a guy $3 so I could wander around and learn all about vulcanology. I watched a movie about the ABSOLUTE IMMINENT THREAT!!!!! of the Cascade volcano chain, and needed a drink afterwards. None was to be found. In frustration, I smashed a penny.
Cruising along a little later, I saw some folks building a cluster of houses on top of a small hill which I could tell would have the best view of the mountain in the area. I guess if you build a half-dozen houses then you can sell the same view six times. I like this approach better than the single house that hoards the view. Of course, the houses themselves were cramped and tiny, and looked to be made of cardboard. The idea of children building a subdivision of ‘forts’ made from discarded refrigerator boxes has it’s appeal, too, but doesn’t seem to be a worthwhile investment in the long term.
I noticed that as the mountain drew closer, the trees grew thinner. What could be mistaken for clearcuts were actually the result of a volcanic blast. I was in the blast zone. The blast zone is clearly marked for any visitor with signs reading ‘Weyerhauser Tree Farm.’
There’s a story about a time just after the volcano erupted, when a group of visiting journalists and reporters got on a helicopter with one local journalist. When the helicopter got close, the crowd in the back started remarking… “What devastation! What horror!” “It’s all dead, all flattened.” “There are no trees left standing!” The local journo piped up: “We’re still miles away from the blast area. Those are Weyerhauser clearcuts.”
But the fact remains that right after the blast, the area of downed timber was quickly transformed into a tree farm. There are lots of young trees, but no forest. And it’s strange, being in a place that was as wild as the surface of Mars, but now transformed into a post-natal ward for cloned trees. If any of these trees could say, “Howdy, glad to meet you,” they’d all say it at the same time, in the same tone of voice, with the same inflection, with the exact same limb offered in handshake. Nature abhors a vacuum; Weyerhauser doubly so.
Concentrating on the floor of the valley, as one sometimes might do when confronted with such bleak fullness as the tree farm, we see a giant mud flow. I immediately want to go down there and spend a bunch of time poking around in the ever-shifting streambeds, but it’s not allowed. I keep expecting to see a bear bouncing across the bottomlands, or a moose or even just a deer, but then I turn around. Tree farm. Oh yeah.
No megafauna survived the blast. There are rumors that the blast killed the last sasquatch, too.
There were really two pictures I feel as though I was supposed to take that day, and I only took one of them. I was supposed to take a picture of that mud-filled valley from up high on the roadway, with the overcast sky turning the streams to loopy curves of silver. But I was too impatient to get close to the mountain itself. By the time I eventually got back to that place, the sun was in the wrong part of the sky.
Eventually I get to Elk Rock viewpoint and take the other picture I was supposed to take.
I also catch these German tourists. The one on the ground is taking a picture. It’s not as obvious as it could be.
The place wasn’t busy at all.
The rest of this story would just be an account of walking a quarter mile down a trail, sitting by a lake for a little while, eating a Clif bar and not taking any more pictures.
The rest of the trip back to Seattle was uneventful.