Since I’ve been in Texas, I’ve been eating lots of big ol’ hunks of meat in various forms.
Last night, for instance, I went to Luther’s BBQ, which is a Houston chain. It’s not the kind of place you go for the absolute best BBQ, and in fact you shouldn’t go for BBQ at all. You should make it. But that’s beside the point here.
The point is that the place isn’t absolutely the best. It’s more like a work-a-day BBQ, if there’s any such thing. They have a drive-up take-out window. You can get some decent BBQ on the way home from work, instead of cooking. That kind of thing. While Luther’s is consistently good, it’s not where you take someone who wants to have the best BBQ in Houston.
The very first day after I got here, I went to Luther’s. It’s kinda close to where my parents live. I made the mistake of ordering the BBQ chicken sandwich, which I’d never had before, and I felt betrayed by one of the few consistently likeable places in town. OK, ‘betrayed’ is too strong. But I kept meaning to go back and give Luther a chance to redeem himself. And last night this happened. I’m not sure how or why, but it was one of the best BBQ experiences I’ve had.
I was at the Westheimer/Gessner location. The guy took my order incorrectly, and I had to iron that out. Then the cashier machine was messing up the orders. Plus I was in line after a cop, which always makes me think of this guy I know who’s a cop and a bodybuilder and a not-very-good philosopher. We both waited patiently while the checkout machinery was disemboweled and given a thermal-paper-ectomy.
I had sliced beef and potato salad and pinto beans. Big ol’ glass of iced tea. Some white bread from the condiments line. You use the white bread instead of napkins while you eat. Later, you sop up the remaining sauce with some more bread.
They had the air conditioning turned up to make the place into a refrigerator. Back in the kitchen, I can see doing this, but if you’re going to make a hot meal, allow it to remain hot while it’s being eaten. I went out onto their patio area, since it wasn’t really all that hot outside, and ate in complete and satisfying loneliness, auto traffic whizzing by on Gessner. Eventually, I was sopping up the sauce with my bread.
The irony is that there’s a Benihana restaurant right next door. This is a fancy, expensive place. My parents took me there once, for my birthday. I think I was 13 or 14 or so. They made me wear a tie, in fact.
That whole shopping center has changed, but Benihana and Luther’s remain. What was once a movie theater (first thing I saw there: ‘Damnation Alley‘) is now a discount girlie-clothing shop. The D&D/comic book shop is something so respectable as not to be memorable.
The thing I like about Seattle is that it doesn’t give me culture shock every time I step out the door, something I don’t even have to walk out the door to get in Houston. And somehow sitting on the patio of Luther’s with a plate full of brisket and sauce turned all that around… For a moment this city wasn’t an insane exercise in everything that’s wrong with America. I could grin a nostalgic grin and convince myself that I really was part of the North American culture that brought you BBQ, and be content within that truth. The sauce was just tangy enough. The iced tea cooled against the warm air. The meat threatened to fall apart as I raised it to my mouth on the fork… The cuisine of Texas.